Sunday, November 14, 2010

Nicolas Bouvier - The Japanese Chronicles

The best book I've read this year is Nicolas Bouvier's travel book The Way of the World which tells the story of his journey from Paris to Afghanistan just after the Second World War. Bouvier's later book The Japanese Chronicles isn't quite as good as that because it's more disjointed, written as a series of impressionistic postcards sent from Japan over a period of several decades. But it is a superior book of travel essays and on every page there is a keen observation or a philosophical side track. Here's a random bit from a Kyoto chapter that gives a pretty good flavour of his style:

Later today in the lobby of my Kyoto Hotel I meet some other foreigners...these are French. After two weeks of cultural circuits they suspect their guides of "not having delivered the soul of Japan." There are some things you don't even say to the woman you love, or to a beloved brother. And these women, who are not stupid, who in Paris would hesitate to change their butcher, demand that before they leave someone should wrap up the 'soul of Japan' for them. What do they want? That through a simple mental process their ignorance can be transformed into knowledge so that they can discuss it when they get home. I judge them, but I too sometimes would like to find my meal set in front of me and fast. We come to this thin and frugal country with our greedy metabolisms. The whole West is that way. The golden dishes, the Maharajas, the rubies as big as duck eggs, that is what the first explorers wanted to see, not the simplicity which is the hallmark of Japan. Here anyone who does not serve an apprenticeship to frugality is definitely wasting his time.

15 comments:

seana said...

It sounds like you and Bouvier are kindred spirits.

My sister has become a bit of a Japanophile in the last couple of years, and I bet she'd like this. I don't think she has become too much like those French ladies, but if she veers in that direction, this might warn her off.

adrian said...

greetings from Kyoto railway station. 

will be back on Tuesday hopefully with some new blog posts

Thank you everyone who has commented on the blog I really appreciate it.

I have now read all the comments but shant be able to reply until I get back (and hear myself think - this place is nuts)

seana said...

That is some really weird font you've got going. I look forward to hearing your impressions.

Glenna said...

Good to hear from you Adrian, it's not the same when we're just here talking to ourselves.

Gavin said...

I'm a bit of a Japanophile myself, and this comment reminded me a bit of one of my trips, when my wife and I went to a zen buddhist vegetarian meal. It took something like 4 hours for lunch; luckily we hadn't planned to do anything particular that afternoon.

There was someone trying to rush the service along, though, and she was Japanese. So it's not just us Westerners in a rush...

To me, though, one of the interesting things about Japan is how it has this idea of elegant simplicity (haiku, some of the art-calligraphy, and so on), but there's another side that's just completely over the top (like in Miike's movies, for example).

Frankie said...

I would love to visit Japan during the cherry blossom festival. Lying under the trees with the pink petals falling would be beautiful. Also I would like to have a Zen garden and rake the sand everyday, it would be very satisfying i think, but there are a lot of cats where I live and i think they might find another use for it.

dpougher said...

My wife did several business trips to Japan when we were living in London. She was fascinated by the superficial Westernness of the business that barely covered the intriguing, very different culture of the Japanese. On one occasion she almost tripped over a woman kneeling on the floor of the women's toilet doing something with a tray of roughly 40 little cups of liquid. My wife's interpreter revealed the little cups contained the urine of the firm's female employees and the kneeling woman was conducting the firm's mandatory monthly pregnancy test. Hmmmm.

Adrian said...

Seana

To be compared to Bouvier is a nice compliment and crikey that is a weird font.

adrian said...

Glenna

I'm nearly back. Not quite.

Adrian said...

Gav

I believe I saw both sides of Tokyo and Japan. The austere beauty of Matsushima, the insanity of Shinjuku Station at rush hour...

adrian said...

Frankie

If I'm going to go back its going to be when there's snow on the ground. I think that could be quite lovely.

adrian said...

David

For some reason I initially thought that final hmmmm was salacious (too many Carry On films in my youth I suspect) but now I see that it was just skepticism.

dpougher said...

It was actually a form of astonishment. I've not been to Japan but my wife spent a lot of her time there astonished, right from the bingo game with the employees (including the local CEO) right after her official welcome (she won, naturally) through the pregnancy test through to the regiemented teeth cleaning after every meal break. And each time she left, the whole head office would come down to the pavement to wave her goodbye. Charming! But odd. Were you doing research over there or a writers' conference?

Gavin said...

Adrian,

I've been there in winter and in spring. It's really cold when there's snow on the ground! But the shrine of the golden pavilion is really gorgeous then. And I've never seen any pictures of it in the snow (all the ones I've seen have it surrounded with greenery) -- that's probably one of my favorite memories from that trip.

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