Wednesday, September 21, 2011

David Byrne - The Bicycle Diaries

The Bicycle Diaries is the story of David Byrne's bicycling adventures around various world cities over the last two decades. Byrne has an economical, unfussy prose style and he's is a good observer which is an important thing in a travel writer. He's also pretty acute at describing what he sees, be it an urban wasteland in Detroit, a cemetery in Sydney or new developments in Berlin or Buenos Aires. Byrne is empathetic and non judgemental about what he's cycling past and this can be a bit boring after a while (the truly great travel writers like Paul Theroux and Mark Twain openly wear their prejudices on their sleeves) but it's not fatal. The bicycle was a good idea because it allows Byrne to get off the beaten tarmac and to see bits of cities that other people do not, this is especially important because Byrne is a celebrity and celebrities experience the world differently than you or me. Celebrities get their asses kissed and tend to see new places through the prism of agents, publicity people and the like, which unfortunately is what happens to Byrne in a few cities that he gets (London and Melbourne for example) completely wrong. 
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I have come to realise that TV travel programmes are utterly bogus and a complete waste of time. Michael Palin, Anthony Bourdain etc. travel from fake location to fake location with a crew of eight or nine people and their trite, uniformed observations are a mockery of genuine travel writing. Byrne by travelling alone, on a bike, without a camera crew, at his own pace, at least avoids these disasters. His charm rubbed off on me and as time wore on I forgave him his naivete, political correctness and need to tell us the bleedin obvious. David Byrne is not a wanker, in fact he seems like a cool guy (he's David Byrne after all!) but that doesn't mean he can't be a bit wanky from time to time especially when he's hanging out with cool cats at private clubs, galleries and fancy restaurants. When he keeps this material in the slow lane The Bicycle Diaries is an enjoyable book but it goes over the white lines into the kill zone when he's at yet another art expo or experimental theatre show or when he says stuff like this: "you know what's more boring than watching a cricket match? listening to a cricket match on the radio."
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(Dear oh dear, the poor deprived man has clearly never spent a lazy August afternoon drinking frozen margaritas, listening to the BBC's Test Match Special as the shadows lengthen and the commentators soft conversation becomes a bridge between an unbroken past and a nostalgic present and we hear old stories and forgotten names and ancient wisdom and see that we are participating in a venerable tradition - what the philosopher Michael Oakeshott calls a living argument - the Great Conversation Of Mankind in all its quirkiness, its richness and diversity and which is surely one of the few unspoiled joys left in this vale of tears.) 
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But that's an aside. On the whole I liked Bicycle Diaries, was not offended by Byrne's hipsterism and thought his advice on helmets, safety and riding in such diverse places as Bogota, Detroit and New York was invaluable. 

24 comments:

speedskater42k said...

Thanks for your review. I'm a cyclist and I've enjoyed Byrne's music, so I'll give this book a try.

I wonder if the publisher will use your review for a blurb on the back cover of its next printing:

"David Byrne is not a wanker . . ."

Frankie said...

Nice to find people who arent wankers occasionally isnt it? What did he get wrong about London?

I also am fed up with the "celebrity" travel programmes. Its basically the BBC or whatever channel paying for already rich and well travelled celebs to get even more rich and even more well travelled. What i want to no is why does being mildly famous make insights into other countries and all topics more interesting, than, say, anybody else who might be well informed, but not a celeb..hmmm

Anonymous said...

Is jan morris as good a travel writer as paul theroux

seana said...

As to TV shows, what about that guy Jonathan Meades you like?

And I just saw a fairly interesting one with two guys from Brooklyn following the trail of Marco Polo.

Cary Watson said...

You're dead right about TV travel programs; they all seem to revel in traveling to predictable places and saying the obvious about what they find. I think the nadir for this was Stephen Fry's TV trip across American in a London cab. He eats lobsters in Maine! He visits a ranch in Montana! The best recent TV travel shows that I've seen weren't travel shows as such: the Top Gear Specials in Vietnam and the Middle East are really about watching the presenters screw up and lark about, but both shows give a really raw and interesting look at the countries they go through.

adrian mckinty said...

Speedskater

Yeah that would be funny wouldnt it?

I should warn you that he makes one or two remarks about serious cyclists and the lycra brigade.

adrian mckinty said...

Frankie

His London is the London of gallery openings and private members clubs and butlers called Simpkins and the Tate Modern and the Thames Embankment and the Tate Modern, which certainly exists, but its not real London is it?

I used to bike in London every day and if you get up early enough it can be pretty amazing - cruising down an empty Oxford Street for example. Would have liked to have seen a bit of that.

adrian mckinty said...

Anon

I like Jan Morris, she's not up there with Theroux or Patrick Leigh Fermor but she's still good.

adrian mckinty said...

Seana

Its a fair point but I think Meades is the exception that proves the rule because he writes his shows before he goes on location. Its all about the writing in other words and the filming is part of the joke or the point he's trying to make. He's not pretending to be on his own "experiencing" a place.

adrian mckinty said...

Cary


That Stephen Fry one was really incredible. I think that might well have been the tipping point where I realised that Fry is very broad but nowhere actually that deep.

I like the Top Gear Specials too. My favourite was the Bolivia one. Yeah for those its about the larking...

seana said...

I liked your paragraph on cricket very much, by the way, even though I don't know cricket. I feel that way a bit about baseball on the radio. I prefer it to televised broadcasts.

Glenna said...

"(Dear oh dear, the poor deprived man has clearly never spent a lazy August afternoon drinking frozen margaritas, listening to the BBC's Test Match Special as the shadows lengthen and the commentators soft conversation becomes a bridge between an unbroken past and a nostalgic present and we hear old stories and forgotten names and ancient wisdom and see that we are participating in a venerable tradition - what the philosopher Michael Oakeshott calls a living argument - the Great Conversation Of Mankind in all its quirkiness, its richness and diversity and which is surely one of the few unspoiled joys left in this vale of tears.)"

Geez that's a nice picture. We need more of that in the world.

Dan said...

I'm hearing you on the celebrity travel programmes...there is a great deal of bogosity (bogusness, bogusidity??) about them...
Yeah right your famous at some shit so that makes you an instant Eric Newby? I think not sunshine...
Anyway bitchiness aside I did have the honour of actually watching an episode of this one night and loved it.
Sure he's dorky and nerdy but he doesn't go into long spiels about 'untold stories' of a place or bang on about he 'feels a connection with the place' that 'all of us seem to have lost' hahaaha.
He just goes about his business in a clunky sorta way but it is good TV in the sense that he allows us to make up our minds.
Well spotted sir!

dpougher said...

I'm surprised but pleased to hear you getting all poetic about the cricket. And yes, frozen margaritas are a huge improvement on warmish beer. Although John Arlott never attended a match without his custom-made leather case that carried two bottles of claret and two glasses - two because Arlott was never short of a friend at the cricket.
And thanks for not getting all poetic about Australia's dismal performance against Ireland.

adrian mckinty said...

Seana

I like to listen to John Sterling call the Yankees games and for real traditionalists there's the great Bob Uecker calling the Brewers. Theres usually terrific ads on the radio for products you imagined were long since dead.

adrian mckinty said...

Glenna

Thanks for that. I was never much of a fan of playing cricket but its a nice game to watch and listen to.

adrian mckinty said...

David

Well I'll admit that my focus has been on the rugby world cup this week not the cricket. During the Ireland-Australia game I had the peculiar experience of listening to the ABC commentators who kept insisting that Australia had the upper hand, whereas the Guardian live text commentary was telling quite a different story.

It is funny though that while most of the rest of world was watching Ireland v Australia live on television in Melbourne, this rugby hating city, we were offered Big Momma's House 2.

adrian mckinty said...

Dan

Well its going to be hard for anybody to be the next Eric Newby or Patrick Fermor but it seems that most of them don't even try do they? They walk from dismal set up to set up and go through the motions while being told where to stand by an assistant director twenty years their junior. Its absurd and kind of embarrassing.

Anonymous said...

Colin Thubron is another fine travel writer. Why have the British Isles produced so many of them?
Both Anthony Bourdain and Michael Palin did shows in Ireland that featured Belfast. I was wondering if anyone else watched them and had any comments.
I was also wondering if writers have to work hard at being observant, or if it just comes easily to them.

adrian mckinty said...

Anon

I really like Thubron too.

I'd say my all time favourites are probably:

Patrick Leigh Fermor, Paul Theroux, and Norman Lewis. Two of whom are British and one a naturalised Brit.

I watched the Bourdain visit to Belfast. It was, however, a complete waste of time. A parade of cliches and lazy photo ops. No serious attempt made to get beneath the surface which is fair enough because TV is a medium of surfaces.

Hostels and Hotels said...

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Buenos Aires Tourism

Chris said...

I loved The Bicycle Diaries. It truly opened my eyes to all the travel possibilities that are out there, and also how versatile a folding bike can be.

adrian mckinty said...

Chris

Yes its an enjoyable thoughtful book.

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