Saturday, March 24, 2012

The Irish Tourist Board Damns Belfast With Faint Praise

Heaney, Longley and two men with beards
In an ad that's been running in The New Yorker the Irish tourist board urges New Yorker readers to come to Ireland to explore its literary heritage. The ad is called A Touch of the Poet and is an expensive double page spread with photographs of the Liffey, Ben Bulben and the James Joyce statue on O'Connell Street. Of course they talk about the Dublin of James Joyce and Wilde and Beckett which is fair enough. This, however, is what they come up with when they mention Belfast: "Belfast welcomes visitors with tours that encompass the favourite haunts of EM Forster, John Keats and Anthony Trollope." Who wrote that bullshit copy? It really is some tenuous nonsense when there's no need for tenuous nonsense as Belfast's literary heritage is very rich. John Keats? Really? John Keats spent one day walking from Donaghadee to Belfast and had nothing nice or very interesting to say about the place when he got there. He left immediately for the packet back to Scotland, so what pray was his favourite haunt in the twenty minutes he spent in the city? Forster spent a couple of days in Belfast in the 1950's unveiling a plaque. Trollope did actually live in Belfast and wrote The Warden there so thats ok but my God Keats and Forster? That's incredibly lame. What would I mention if I was going to do a literary heritage tourism spread about Belfast (especially a spread called A Touch of the Poet)? Well how about:
...
1. CS Lewis: born and grew up in Belfast. Wrote a little thing you might have heard of called the Narnia series. There's a statue of Lewis and his wardrobe and a blue plaque outside his house. Millions of copies of the Narnia books have been sold. Tourists might like that. 
2. Philip Larkin: the greatest twentieth century poet lived in Belfast in the 1950's and wrote some of his best work there. 
3. The Queens University Poetry circle in the 1970's produced Ireland's most important poets since the Gaelic revival. Who exactly you might ask? Well just half a dozen Pulitzer Prize winners and Noble laureates and winners of every other major poetry award. People like: Seamus Heaney, Ciaran Carson, Paul Muldoon, Tom Paulin, Michael Longley, Derek Mahon, etc. etc. 
4. Belfast's current poetry scene is one of the richest in Europe with exciting young poets like Sinead Morrissey et. al. many of whom read at the Seamus Heaney Poetry Centre at QUB, the place for poetry in Ireland. Tourists might like that too.
5. And if we're talking about Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett how about mentioning that they spent their formative years in Northern Ireland at Portora School? Or that Jonathan Swift wrote A Tale of a Tub and began Gullivers Travels in a spot just outside Belfast called Carrickfergus. Or why not mention my favourite, the great Flann O'Brien who grew up in Omagh?
...
My point in all this is that the Discover Ireland people don't need to embarrass themselves by mentioning some half assed John Keats or EM Forster reference when the literary heritage in Belfast is already impressive. I haven't even talked about Louis MacNeice or Brian Moore or Ian McDonald or Ronan Bennett or Eoin McNamee or Colin Bateman etc. bloody etc. 

32 comments:

Matt said...

Is someone imitating you on Twitter, Adrian?

Peter Rozovsky said...

Publishers aren't the only eejits, I guess.

adrian mckinty said...

Matt

I dont think so.

Did you catch the news about Joba Chamberlain? He could be out for the season or possibly it could be the end of his career. He was on a trampoline, the idiot.

adrian mckinty said...

Peter

I think the copywriters are just incredibly lazy.

lil Gluckstern said...

Maybe they missed the point that they were supposed to-um-promote Irish talent?

adrian mckinty said...

Lil

Its just amazingly condescending isnt it? They talk about 3 visiting English writers but ignore the local talent.

Peter Rozovsky said...

You mean maybe they're the same people who compare every crime writer to Chandler or Hammett?

Cary Watson said...

Considering what a darling C.S. Lewis has become to US christians, Discover Ireland has really missed the boat by promotoing his N.I. roots. Of course, the bible belters aren't likely to be reading the New Yorker.

Kate said...

Flann was the man; MacNeice, like all the Northern poets I've read so far, was awesome; Beckett was schooled in Portora, and taught briefly in Belfast; and though you'd think it'd have the opposite effect, reading McNamee often makes me want to see NI again - for this tourist, it's been a great destination.

I think it's going to be a while before some New Yorker readers give any blue collar city its due.

And I swear, when it comes to serious Irish culture, a few Americans are proudly ignorant. I went to a Quaker college; some of my classmates had come from a Friends boarding school, where Dubliners and A Portrait of the Artist had been required reading; and their take on those classics? "There were, like, so many phallic symbols in those books; it was gross"; "Yeah; Joyce was a real perv"; "Well, the problem with the Irish is..." From there, the comments grew increasingly breathtaking. They were jackasses, but at least they motivated me to read those books for myself.

Cary Watson said...

I should have said by "not promoting."

Kate said...

Sorry for mentioning Beckett's education when I didn't need to.

adrian mckinty said...

Kate

Beckett and Wilde were both at Portora. They are both big enough to generate it considerable interest you would have thought. But no. Not even mentioned in a N.I. context.

adrian mckinty said...

Cary

Yeah they love Lewis dont they? Its funny I was sort of meh on the Narnia stuff back when I was 11, preferring LOTR etc. I recently read Wardrobe to one of my daughters and found it really heavy handed with its Christian allegory. I actually think its a pretty bad book.

adrian mckinty said...

Peter

No I think the copywriters for that New Yorker ad just copied a random line from the Belfast tourist board's website. In fact I know that thats what they've done. Lazy lazy lazy.

Cary Watson said...

Yeah, the Christian elements in Narnia are alternately cloying and prissy. Between reading some of the Narnia books and The Screwtape Letters it's obvious that Lewis saw God as nothing more complicated than a higher form of nanny. Nanny cubed, as it were.

adrian mckinty said...

Cary

The only worse book I've read to the kids recently is A Wrinkle In Time. That thing is laughably bad. Her Christian allegory is barely even allegory and her writing is just awful. Definitely the worst children's classic I've come across.

Cary Watson said...

I agree completely. Wrinkle is just dull, dull, dull. If you're looking for something to read the girls that's witty, imaginative, exciting and full of grrl power try the Mortal Engines Quartet by Philip Reeve. Peter Jackson's bought the film rights. Or try The Mennyms by Sylvia Waugh. It's strange but very affecting. I have a review of it here:

http://www.jettisoncocoon.com/2012/02/book-review-mennyms-1993-by-sylvia.html

Kate said...

Dublin used to offer a Literary Pub Crawl. Maybe it was cheesy, but I liked it. I'd spend money on a literary tour of Derry or Belfast. It might be neat to hear Catholic and Protestant descriptions of the shipyards,City Hall - and the Crown, a place everyone can agree on.

Remy said...

I'm visiting Belfast in April. Can't wait to see some of the cracking pubs again.

I may do the Titanic thing out of curiosity (if it's open by then).

adrian mckinty said...

Cary

I'll check those out. I read Leviathan last month and it was ok but nothing special I felt.

adrian mckinty said...

Kate

Well there's the famous black taxi tours of Belfast. Supposed to be good. I havent done it myself though.

adrian mckinty said...

Remy

There was a very nice piece in the Guardian this week about the Titanic interpretive centre. I'm in two minds about the Titanic. On the one hand I dont see why we should be celebrating a horrible engineering disaster. On the other there is a lot of interest in it.

Incidentally my dad and sister both worked in the shipyard back when they actually built ships rather than just showed tourists around the places where they used to build ships.

seana said...

Oh, man. Here for once I thought I was going to be able to live in harmony with you all. Indignant about the ignorance about where the true Norn Iron lit scene was. I'm even down with you on Narnia, which was first presented to me by evangelical Christians, so I knew what the angle was right away. (Although, except for the end, it made a pretty good movie with a very cute faun.)

But then you had to go and diss A Wrinkle in Time. I loved that book when I was in the fourth grade. We all did. We even made up some weird game about the tesseract involving the tether ball.

I know L'engle was a fairly proselytizing Christian and her later books seem that way. But I loved Meg and I loved Charles Wallace and didn't get any Christian belief from it at all. I'm not saying it wasn't there, but that's not the way it played in Dublin, California somewhere in the late sixties.

adrian mckinty said...

Seana

Probably best to be read in the 4th grade then. I found it insufferable. In the 4th grade I dont think I would have liked it either. I'm pretty sure that the 9 year old me would have complained that it wasn't a proper science fiction novel and was actually a fantasy.

I think Narnia is slightly less tedious because its shorter and at least CS Lewis doesnt feel the need to display his considerable scholarship on his sleeve. But I am not a fan of either book.

A Wrinkle In Time is famous for having been rejected by 25 publishers and going on to sell millions. I'm afraid I would have been one of the publishers that rejected it.

seana said...

You would have been wrong. It happens.

Peter Rozovsky said...

Visit No Alibis, then catch your breath in the Botanical Garden. What else do you need to do in Belfast?

seana said...

Don't you need to head to Carrickfergus?

Remy said...

Seana

You've obviously never been to Carrick.......

Flees before Adrian bans me.

John McFetridge said...

I started to watch the first episode of the new Titanic mini-series (Irish-Canadian-US co-production) and found the class distction stuff a little heavy-handed but then my wife asked why we were getting involved with all these people who were going to die. But now that Adrian has mentioned the engineering failure I think that was it, my wife is an engineer and she just didn't want to see that.

adrian mckinty said...

John

I sometimes hear Belfast natives say that they are proud that Belfast built the Titanic. Be proud of the SS Canberra or HMS Belfast, ships that served with distinction. But the Titanic? A disaster of a vessel that resulted in the deaths of 1000 people? I dont see much to be proud of there.

adrian mckinty said...

Remy

Nope it can be a dodgy place sure enough.

seana said...

Remy, it sounds like you could get a good pint at the Joymount Arms, stroll over to the castle, and have a nice afternoon there, no matter what anyone says.

Though it will probably be swamped with Game of Thrones tourists forever more.

John and Adrian, well, our store just put up a Titanic Centenary display, and here we are halfway around the world from the sinking of the ship, so I would say those Belfast tourist board types are probably pretty savvy, no matter how little sense it makes.